For most western tourists anything in Poland outside of Krakow and Warsaw, with perhaps Danzig and Breslau thrown in for good measure, is still pretty much a terra incognita. Even for the Poles themselves, many areas along their country's eastern frontier with Ukraine are little known, and therefore pleasantly devoid of the trappings of mass tourism. However, for those of us who seek to discover something more authentic than the touristy charms of Poland's former and present capital,..