For nearly 500 years, the faithful followed this same rugged route along Lake Mjøsa, up into the pine-draped hills, through ancient Bronze Age settlements, across fog-cloaked valleys, up over the frigid tundra with its Stone Age reminders, and back down to the azure fjord. This they did (under certainly more difficult circumstances) in devotion, penance, or to seek miracles at the cathedral in Trondheim where St. Olav was reputedly interred. However, in 1603 pilgrimages were banned...